Blissful Baguio

BLISSFUL BAGUIO

RJ Fry

While hard to believe for those of us in colder climates, the Filipino trend is to escape the heat during summer and flock to the mountains. Baguio, nicknamed the 'Summer capital of the Philippines,' is a charming city in Central Luzon with much to offer the visitor. 

Although most postcards of the Philippines highlight white sandy beaches and coconut trees swaying in the breeze, a trip up North to the Cordillera Central mountain range provides a different viewpoint on this fascinating archipelago of 7,107 islands.

As well as trying the local delicacy of taho (soy bean pudding), a trip to Camp John Hay is a must-do when visiting Baguio. Home to a world class golf course, designed by none other than Jack Nicklaus, the cool mountain breeze makes 18 holes a delight – rather than a chore. The cooler climate also means it's also the only golf course in the Philippines to contain bentgrass greens, meaning you won't have anything to blame – except for your putter. 

There's also more than just golf to keep you entertained, with amenities like garden mazes and paintball sure to keep a smile on everybody's face. If you don't feel up to the full eighteen, there's also a mini-golf course – so you won't miss out!

The Philippines is known for such stomach churning delicacies such as Balut (partially formed duck foetus), made by famous by TV chefs such as Anthony Bourdain and Andrew Zimmern. However, for those of us a little less adventurous, why not try Chocolate de Batirol? Somewhere between a hot cocoa and peanut soup, this ancient chocolate concoction contains no preservatives whatsoever – not to mention a delightful lack of feathers and beaks!

The ancient preparation has remained unchanged for centuries, as I see for myself with the barista dashing out from behind the counter to grind out the mixture on my table. It's a gluey mix that's both thick and bittersweet, not to mention 100% Filipino. Choco-late de Batirol is located by Gate 2 at Camp John Hay and offers this traditional beverage, along with a few flavorful twists.

Baguio's Botanical Gardens are also worth a visit, as they proudly showcase woodcarvings and traditional artworks from local tribes. Talking with local vendor, Edmund, I learn to spot the difference between handmade carvings and those formed by machines.

“In Cordillera region, we use only one piece of wood – so each piece is unique,” he says proudly.

Not for the first time in Baguio, I spot the carving of a sullen man with no expression who sits solemnly to stare at each person who walks by. Edmund tells me this is a carving of their rice god, who goes by the name of Boolo.

“He is a very good luck charm for businesses. In ancient times, he would guard the rice sacks or barrels of rice wine,” he says. So essentially, having faith in Boolo meant one would never go hungry.

The indigenous people are not forgotten here either, with proud statues and sculptures scattered throughout the gardens. While there are all sorts of flowers and plants to be found, the real focus is on learning about local culture that has remained so for thousands of years. I learn that be it oil painting or weaving, the number of barrels depicted has to do with the celebration at hand. Three barrels is for a small celebration such as graduation, while five barrels is for a wedding and seven barrels is for a baby.

SIDEBAR: Panagbenga Festival

While Carnivale of Rio de Janiero is famous the world over for lasting five days and nights, Panagbenga Festival lasts for over a month. A lot of the events are aimed at children, making it an ideal choice for families. There are carousels and bumper cars, just as you'd find at any showgrounds back home. Those looking for a throwback to yesteryear, rest easy – there's a roller disco found inside Burham Park.

This annual 'festival of flowers' has been going strong for 17 years now, with each year attempting to outdo the last in the form of elaborate artwork and colorful displays. It was first held in 1995 to rebuild the city's image and morale after a devastating earthquake that shattered Baguio in 1990. The Grand Float Parade takes place each year on the last Sunday of February and it truly showcases the creativity that's possible through gardening.

As you can imagine, the streets are flocking with people as tourists from near and far gather to see these artistic creations. Forget sleeping in, as the parade starts in the crisp morning air at 8am. Visitors and locals flock to Session Road, where the floats are marched proudly down the street and on to the field at Baguio's Athletic Bowl, where they remain on display for the rest of the day.

Oriental dragons, the type that wouldn't look out of place in Chinese New Year festivities, are an annual staple entry. Complete with delicate scales and fearsome teeth – you can only tell they're made from flowers when you're close enough to touch it. Some of the floats are topical, mimicking the latest trends or popular web games such as “Angry Birds.”

More than just a celebration of flowers, Panagbenga is a celebration of Spring and green living. As I trekked through Baguio's winding and often steep roads, I found myself entering Burham Park to wander through a dazzling display of florists and gardening stalls, with vendors all too happy to share helpful advice. It was the bonsai stalls that held my attention the longest, and I couldn't keep myself from gazing at their intricate, albeit miniature, system of roots and branches.

While Baguio has always been somewhat of an escape from the hustle and bustle of Metro Manila, those seeking solitude would be more at home in nearby mountain towns such as Sagada or Banaue during the month-long festivities. Originally built for 25,000 inhabitants, it has adapted to fit 250,000 people fairly well. However, that number rises almost to a million during Panagbenga, which is one of the biggest festivals in the Philippines.

In a time of iPhones and 3G wi-fi connectivity, it can be hard for the younger generation to connect with their ancestral roots. Northern Luzon, or at least pockets of it, was one of the few areas in the Philippines to escape colonization, which meant their culture and customs were kept intact. Every year during Panagbenga, indigenous people from various nearby tribes put on workshops, perform tribal dances and sell traditional woodcarvings.

GETTING THERE

By Air – Although there is an airport in town, unfortunately there has been no commercial service to Baguio in recent years. Through flying Air Asia though, you'll arrive at Clark Airport, rather than Manila, which means only a 3 hour bus ride rather than 5.

By Bus – The most convenient and economical way to get to Baguio is by bus. The journey will take 5 – 7 hours, depending on traffic. For a smoother journey, opt to leave at night or very early in the morning.

Buses leave throughout Metro Manila and the fare is 450 – 700 PHP ($10 - $16 USD) depending on if you choose standard, deluxe or VIP. Buses depart frequently from Victory Liner's terminal, in both Pasay and Cubao.

WHERE TO STAY

El Cielto – (www.elcielto-baguio.com) isn't located downtown, but it's only five minutes by taxi from all the city's attractions. Rooms start at $42 USD per night which includes hot/cold shower, cable television, air-con and wi-fi. It's terrific value for money.

Red Lion Pub – (www.redlionpub-baguio.com) More than just your standard pub, Red Lion also plays host to many weary travellers and there's live music every night. Rooms start at $18 USD.

Paladin Hotel – (www.paladinhotelbaguio.com) Located in the heart of Baguio, Paladin Hotel is somewhat of a boutique option. All room rates are inclusive of breakfast, hot/cold shower and cable television. Rooms start at $40 USD.

Taal Volcano - A Tale Of Two Cities

Taal Volcano

City #1 - Tagaytay, Cavite

Like Baguio to the North, this small mountain town serves as a welcome respite from the steamy heat of Manila – not to mention the crowds and chaos. However, unlike its Northern counterpart, Tagaytay is only one hour away by bus, which makes for a perfect weekend escape.

Although not as chilly as other mountain towns such as Sagada or Banaue, the average temperature is still a mild and pleasant 22.7 degrees Celsius - which will sound like bliss when you're sweating it out in the capital. The cool alpine breeze and fresh pine scent will surely stir your senses, while just single glimpse of Taal Volcano from your bus on the highway will have you reeling. 

Nicknamed the city of fog for good reason, mist in the air only adds to the charm and romance of the place. Winding roads, a nip to the air and a full moon puts me in mind of Bram Stoker's Transylvania. This historic city was once a getaway for corruption politicians in the Marcos era, drawn in by elaborate cocktail parties thrown by Imelda and the enchanting backdrop of the world's smallest volcano.  

Famous throughout Central Luzon province as a 'fruit destination,' stalls line the city streets selling tropical delicacies such as mangoes and pineapples, as well as stranger items such as jackfruit (lanca). Always curious to try something new, I order this strange and alien-like fruit and watch the vendor prize it open with a few swift moves of her machete.

The taste is unique, somewhere between the range of a mango and a banana, but with a texture to remember, it manages to be both chewy and soft – something like the tapioca pearls found in bubble tea.

You can't help but notice the merchants hawking their goods, as if you attempt to make any purchases at a busy time, you'll notice a sound akin to the commentary box at a horse race – regardless of the language used.

The clean fragrant air and abundant fresh produce on offer, always means that delicious food is never far away. For those looking to splurge on a fancy night out, Antonio's Restaurant is widely regarded as the best restaurant in the Philippines and is officially the 5^th best in all of Asia (Miele Guide). Think of it as French/Filipino fusion, itself an oddity, but with a view like nowhere else in the world. 

I rise early and am fully dressed and out the door of my guesthouse by 5am, expecting to jostle for position with other members of the snap happy contingency, but strangely – nobody's awake. I make my way to Starbucks, known for having the best viewpoint along Tagaytay ridge, but I've got nobody to keep me company but a surly security guard intent on watching me like a hawk.

Unable to get that perfect shot of sunrise, I jump on the next jeepney bound for People's Park in the Sky. This crumbling structure was originally intended to serve as a guesthouse for former president Ronald Reagen but was never completed. Open to the public, it's popular among visitors for having a nice viewpoint of Taal Lake, but also Metro Manila on a clear day. 

I arrive at around 7.30am, a full thirty minutes before the gates open, leaving me enough time for an alfresco breakfast. Fresh buko juice (coconut) is a steal at 30 php, while a sweet juicy segment of pineapple is only 10 php.

Sitting along the roadside, I'm caught up in a swirling sea of clouds and can barely see 5 meters in front of me. While People's Park isn't exactly atop Mt. Everest, the omnipresent fog for which the city is famous for, will make you feel as if you've ascended into the clouds and reached the round table with Zeus. 

The amphitheater is perfectly positioned and with blinding white fog in each direction, it looks like the elaborate set and stage of a Greek tragedy. While the rest of the buildings look drab and unfinished, it's the location adjacent to heaven's pearly gates that keeps people coming back.

City #2 - Talisay, Batangas

To really appreciate Taal Volcano, you must view it from above and below. To do this you must visit both the towns of Talisay and Tagaytay, but don't worry – only a short tricycle ride separates the two.

Barely ten minutes downhill from Tagaytay, this small lakeside town is in another province nonetheless (Batangas). The township itself stretches out, with several guesthouses and restaurants sprawled along the water's edge. The magnificent volcanic backdrop looms in focus and with a little bargaining, a boat ride to the island within the crater lake can be had for under 1000 PHP.

Taal Volcano is not only the world's smallest active volcano, but also part of the Pacific ring of fire. Since 1572, there have been a whopping 33 recorded eruptions and as such, it's under constant surveillance. An eruption in 1911 killed 1,335 people, while dangerous activity such as toxic fumes and rumbling sounds were reported as recently as last year.

Climbing to the top is relatively stress-free, but rather than make a miserable horse's day a little worse, I decided to scale the 400 meter summit solo. Vendors renting horses warned me it would take hours, but after taking their suggestions with a grain of salt – managed to reach the rim within 40 minutes.

Easily done for both children and adults, the amount of dust and dirt accumulated along the way is remarkable. Whatever you do, don't wear your Sunday best! Visitors who make it to the top, whether by horse or by foot, have the opportunity to buy 'Taal Volcano' souvenir t-shirts, while similar apparel is absent from stalls and stands along Tagaytay ridge. 

The scenery is stunning along the way, although it never allows you to forget you're trekking up a volcano and not a mountain. For instance, instead of regular soil to tread upon, warm volcanic ash will heat you up with each and every step. Also, whenever you see smoke rising, don't get alarmed and assume it's a bushfire – those are just normal volcano emissions. If you happen to see a man teeing off from the top of a volcano, don't worry, you're not seeing things. Of all the places in the world to find a driving range, I never expected it to be atop the world's smallest volcano. 

Looking down into the vibrant crater lake, I ask the vendor to crack open an ice cold buko (coconut) and taste for myself what the locals have nicknamed 'nature's Gatorade.' After my attempts at drinking it leave onlookers in stitches, one kind lady emerges from the crowd and hands me a straw. I discover both a delicious and refreshing taste, but I'm shocked to learn of the high potassium and mineral content (not to mention the ability to use it as an intravenous hydration fluid!) which puts it firmly in the 'health drink' category. Amidst a barrage of coconut trivia, I learn that the Philippines is the world's biggest producer of coconuts. 

Getting To Know Taipei (101) - Eating

Home to more than just ancient temples, bustling city streets and looming skyscrapers, Taiwan is known the world over for their bizarre food items and restaurant themes. Made famous in recent years by TV chefs like Andrew Zimmern and Anthony Bourdain, Stinky Tofu is a local delicacy that's hard not to notice. Like the durian fruit of Malaysia, you either love it or hate it - there's no middle ground. Opinions on how to describe the odor differ, but in my opinion it's a little like rancid garbage meets rotten milk.

If you can battle through the aroma though, it's actually delicious. Best served deep fried and rubbed with hot peppers, it differs from regular tofu in both texture and flavor. It must be the three months of fermentation underground in a salty solution that give it a meat-like texture and sharp flavor - almost like biting into aged cheddar.


Shilin Night Market is the perfect place to find this local oddity, as it's world famous with tourists from across the globe stopping by to check out some bargains. Like most of Asia, this marketplace is home to pirated DVDs, jewelery, cheap t-shirts and more food stalls than you can shake a skewer at. Besides Stinky Tofu, some other local specialties involve Oyster Omelets and Scallion Pancakes.

Why anyone would think that a toilet-themed restaurant would work is crazy, but what's crazier is a chain of toilet-themed restaurants that's spreading like wildfire throughout Asia! Modern Toilet Restaurant is proof that no idea is too crazy. From modest beginnings in 2002, this franchise has now spread throughout China with three outlets and counting.

Let's be honest, there's not a whole lot about this scenario that makes sense - but let's consider Taiwan for a moment. This island shaped like a sweet potato is home to more strangely themed restaurants than anywhere else in Asia, it's even spawned a culture. For those of you who prefer your drinks served from a vat suspended from the ceiling, there's a hospital themed restaurant. If you'd rather your waiter be dressed in black and carrying a sword, there's a ninja themed sushi place. Heck, even if you just like Hello Kitty, eating from your tray aboard an Airbus A380 - it can all be found in Taipei!

The sight and sound of someone slurping green tea out of a urinal, or eating soup out of a small-scale toilet bowel may not sound appetizing, but it makes a discernible difference to your usual dining experience! I wonder why this concept would work, but looking around the restaurant, I notice more locals than tourists. Seeking answers, I ask my waitress, Joanna, to explain the polarizing popularity.

"Weird is good. You must remember, Taiwan is abnormal - not normal!" she laughs, cheerily. "It's fun and different. Where else can you watch your food cook in a toilet?"

I look around and concede that she's right. Everything inside, although clean and sanitized, can be found within your average restroom. One wall is adorned with urinals, while another is decorated with toilet lids - even the chairs are recycled toilet bowls. If that wasn't enough, you can pick up a signature poo poo key chain from the cashier on your way out!

Getting To Know Taipei (101)

Taiwan is a country that's determinedly hard to pigeonhole. For instance, while Taipei has enough skyscrapers to fill any night's horizon with glimmer and gold, the maze-like laneways and hidden side streets belong to a different era.

The pungent aromas of incense, street food stalls and traditional Chinese herbs bombard your senses, while the lack of a single English letter on display reminds you of the international borders you've just crossed. At first glance, Taipei's modern international airport is welcoming and modern with the majority of signs written in both Mandarin and English. This leads many (myself included) to believe that Taiwan is a bilingual country - a dangerous mistake.

Navigating the city's modern metro system is a breeze, but finding an individual restaurant or address will prove difficult as the majority of locals don't speak English. Your best bet is either an expat or young person - but even then it's still hit and miss. The language barrier won't hinder the friendly nature of the locals though, who really will try everything they can to get you where you need to be!


Chiang Kai-shek Memorial Hall is a perfect example of Taiwan's ability to merge the old with the new, to forge tradition with the future and yesterday with tomorrow. The elaborate mausoleum also showcases the similarities between our world's oldest civilizations, India and China, in particular - their reverence for the dead.

On the ground floor, visitors are given the choice of two options. If you choose to turn right, the amount of paintings featuring majestic landscapes and symbolic animals will make your head spin. It is here that you can acquaint yourself with the Taiwan of yesteryear.

However, if you choose to turn left instead, there is an exhibition on what awaits this island nation in the near future. Futuristic technology is already at your fingertips here, with high-speed trains that need no driver and wi-fi at every 7-11!

There's no better example of Taiwan's progress in recent years, than Taipei 101 - the building which held the record for the world's tallest building from 2004 - 2010 when it was taken over by the Burj Al-Arab. While it may no longer hold the top-spot in terms of height - the elevators are still the world's quickest. In a fraction under 37 seconds, 20 gobsmacked tourists are whisked from level 5 to level 89. 

While one can find modern amenities in every corner of Taipei, elements of the past are still on proud display. Longshan Temple is the oldest in all of Taiwan, built in 1738, it was damaged during WW2 but somehow remained intact. The building itself is elaborate in structure, with dragons on the rooftop and a myriad of colors to catch the eye of those passing by. Stepping into the complex, the art of zen is attempted with manicured gardens and a man-made waterfall.

Especially popular on weekends, those seeking zen would best pursue it on a weekday morning. To appreciate the somewhat frenzied state, just lean back on a pillar and watch the buffet of offerings given up to the gods. Some donate fresh fruit or decorative flowers, while others carry with them enough burning incense to make your eyes water. I watch a man meditate, seemingly oblivious to the dancing prayers of devotees beside him. Religious monuments adorn the building's facade, with everything from Buddhism to Taoism represented in style.

Home to more than just temples and modern buildings, Taiwan is known the world over for the bizarre food items and restaurant themes. Made famous in recent years by TV chefs like Andrew Zimmern and Anthony Bourdain, Stinky Tofu is a local delicacy that's hard not to notice. Like the durian fruit of Malaysia, you either love it or hate it - there's no middle ground. Opinions on how to describe the odor differ, but in my opinion it's a little like rancid garbage meets rotten milk.

If you can battle through the aroma though, it's actually delicious. Best served deep fried and rubbed with hot peppers, it differs from regular tofu in both texture and flavor. It must be the three months of fermentation underground in a salty solution that give it a meat-like texture and sharp flavor - almost like biting into aged cheddar.

Shilin Night Market is world famous with tourists from across the globe stopping by to check out some bargains. Like most of Asia, this marketplace is home to pirated DVDs, jewelery, cheap t-shirts and more food stalls than you can shake a skewer at. Besides Stinky Tofu, some other local specialties involve Oyster Omelets and Scallion Pancakes.

Why anyone would think that a toilet-themed restaurant would work is crazy, but what's crazier is a chain of toilet-themed restaurants that's spreading like wildfire throughout Asia! Modern Toilet Restaurant is proof that no idea is too crazy. From modest beginnings in 2002, this franchise has now spread throughout China with three outlets and counting.

The sight and sound of someone slurping green tea out of a urinal, or eating soup out of a small-scale toilet bowel may not sound appetizing, but it makes a discernible difference to your usual dining experience! I wonder why this concept would work, but looking around the restaurant, I notice more locals than tourists. Seeking answers, I ask my waitress, Joanna, to explain the polarizing popularity.

"Weird is good. You must remember, Taiwan is abnormal - not normal!" she laughs, cheerily. "It's fun and different. Where else can you watch your food cook in a toilet?"


I look around and concede that she's right. Everything inside, although clean and sanitized, can be found within your average restroom. One wall is adorned with urinals, while another is decorated with toilet lids - even the chairs are recycled toilet bowls. If that wasn't enough, you can pick up a signature poo poo key chain from the cashier on your way out!

National Palace Museum is home to a wealth of Chinese artifacts, playing host to more oriental antiquities and artwork than any other place on Earth. While I'm not much of a museum buff myself, I found myself lingering in the calligraphy and rare book section. You're also able to leaf through treaties between China and America, while the real deal is kept behind thick glass.

Intricate works of art are made from jade or coral, such as tablets dating back thousands of years.Chinese characters are painstakingly etched onto carved jade, making the tablets that Moses used seem feeble.

It doesn't happen often, particularly inside a museum, but I'm well and truly speechless. The only downside are the hordes of tourists brought in by the busload, which can make viewing some of the famed objects a test in patience.

Din Tai Fueng!

At last! A chance to dine at a Michelin star restaurant, without having to take out a second mortgage. Din Tai Fueng was named one of the top ten restaurants in the world and at the time, it was the only Asian entry on the list. Little has changed since and with fresh ingredients and friendly staff - expect a memorable meal each time!

Famed for their traditional Taiwanese dumplings, there is also a wide range of traditional Chinese food on offer.

Mt. Iglit Pics