Getting To Know Taipei (101)

Taiwan is a country that's determinedly hard to pigeonhole. For instance, while Taipei has enough skyscrapers to fill any night's horizon with glimmer and gold, the maze-like laneways and hidden side streets belong to a different era.

The pungent aromas of incense, street food stalls and traditional Chinese herbs bombard your senses, while the lack of a single English letter on display reminds you of the international borders you've just crossed. At first glance, Taipei's modern international airport is welcoming and modern with the majority of signs written in both Mandarin and English. This leads many (myself included) to believe that Taiwan is a bilingual country - a dangerous mistake.

Navigating the city's modern metro system is a breeze, but finding an individual restaurant or address will prove difficult as the majority of locals don't speak English. Your best bet is either an expat or young person - but even then it's still hit and miss. The language barrier won't hinder the friendly nature of the locals though, who really will try everything they can to get you where you need to be!


Chiang Kai-shek Memorial Hall is a perfect example of Taiwan's ability to merge the old with the new, to forge tradition with the future and yesterday with tomorrow. The elaborate mausoleum also showcases the similarities between our world's oldest civilizations, India and China, in particular - their reverence for the dead.

On the ground floor, visitors are given the choice of two options. If you choose to turn right, the amount of paintings featuring majestic landscapes and symbolic animals will make your head spin. It is here that you can acquaint yourself with the Taiwan of yesteryear.

However, if you choose to turn left instead, there is an exhibition on what awaits this island nation in the near future. Futuristic technology is already at your fingertips here, with high-speed trains that need no driver and wi-fi at every 7-11!

There's no better example of Taiwan's progress in recent years, than Taipei 101 - the building which held the record for the world's tallest building from 2004 - 2010 when it was taken over by the Burj Al-Arab. While it may no longer hold the top-spot in terms of height - the elevators are still the world's quickest. In a fraction under 37 seconds, 20 gobsmacked tourists are whisked from level 5 to level 89. 

While one can find modern amenities in every corner of Taipei, elements of the past are still on proud display. Longshan Temple is the oldest in all of Taiwan, built in 1738, it was damaged during WW2 but somehow remained intact. The building itself is elaborate in structure, with dragons on the rooftop and a myriad of colors to catch the eye of those passing by. Stepping into the complex, the art of zen is attempted with manicured gardens and a man-made waterfall.

Especially popular on weekends, those seeking zen would best pursue it on a weekday morning. To appreciate the somewhat frenzied state, just lean back on a pillar and watch the buffet of offerings given up to the gods. Some donate fresh fruit or decorative flowers, while others carry with them enough burning incense to make your eyes water. I watch a man meditate, seemingly oblivious to the dancing prayers of devotees beside him. Religious monuments adorn the building's facade, with everything from Buddhism to Taoism represented in style.

Home to more than just temples and modern buildings, Taiwan is known the world over for the bizarre food items and restaurant themes. Made famous in recent years by TV chefs like Andrew Zimmern and Anthony Bourdain, Stinky Tofu is a local delicacy that's hard not to notice. Like the durian fruit of Malaysia, you either love it or hate it - there's no middle ground. Opinions on how to describe the odor differ, but in my opinion it's a little like rancid garbage meets rotten milk.

If you can battle through the aroma though, it's actually delicious. Best served deep fried and rubbed with hot peppers, it differs from regular tofu in both texture and flavor. It must be the three months of fermentation underground in a salty solution that give it a meat-like texture and sharp flavor - almost like biting into aged cheddar.

Shilin Night Market is world famous with tourists from across the globe stopping by to check out some bargains. Like most of Asia, this marketplace is home to pirated DVDs, jewelery, cheap t-shirts and more food stalls than you can shake a skewer at. Besides Stinky Tofu, some other local specialties involve Oyster Omelets and Scallion Pancakes.

Why anyone would think that a toilet-themed restaurant would work is crazy, but what's crazier is a chain of toilet-themed restaurants that's spreading like wildfire throughout Asia! Modern Toilet Restaurant is proof that no idea is too crazy. From modest beginnings in 2002, this franchise has now spread throughout China with three outlets and counting.

The sight and sound of someone slurping green tea out of a urinal, or eating soup out of a small-scale toilet bowel may not sound appetizing, but it makes a discernible difference to your usual dining experience! I wonder why this concept would work, but looking around the restaurant, I notice more locals than tourists. Seeking answers, I ask my waitress, Joanna, to explain the polarizing popularity.

"Weird is good. You must remember, Taiwan is abnormal - not normal!" she laughs, cheerily. "It's fun and different. Where else can you watch your food cook in a toilet?"


I look around and concede that she's right. Everything inside, although clean and sanitized, can be found within your average restroom. One wall is adorned with urinals, while another is decorated with toilet lids - even the chairs are recycled toilet bowls. If that wasn't enough, you can pick up a signature poo poo key chain from the cashier on your way out!

National Palace Museum is home to a wealth of Chinese artifacts, playing host to more oriental antiquities and artwork than any other place on Earth. While I'm not much of a museum buff myself, I found myself lingering in the calligraphy and rare book section. You're also able to leaf through treaties between China and America, while the real deal is kept behind thick glass.

Intricate works of art are made from jade or coral, such as tablets dating back thousands of years.Chinese characters are painstakingly etched onto carved jade, making the tablets that Moses used seem feeble.

It doesn't happen often, particularly inside a museum, but I'm well and truly speechless. The only downside are the hordes of tourists brought in by the busload, which can make viewing some of the famed objects a test in patience.

Din Tai Fueng!

At last! A chance to dine at a Michelin star restaurant, without having to take out a second mortgage. Din Tai Fueng was named one of the top ten restaurants in the world and at the time, it was the only Asian entry on the list. Little has changed since and with fresh ingredients and friendly staff - expect a memorable meal each time!

Famed for their traditional Taiwanese dumplings, there is also a wide range of traditional Chinese food on offer.

Mt. Iglit Pics

Pearl Farm Resort

Surrounded by ocean in every direction, I fill my lungs with the salty spray of sea air – a welcome change from the air pollution of any big city. After twenty minutes of smooth sailing, our seemingly silent boat (a novelty in The Philippines) docked upon the shores of this sublime island paradise. Recently swallowed up by the ever-increasing city limits of Metro Davao, Samal is the perfect island for escape artists and lovers. 

Although I disembark the electric boat sometime after sunset, my first impressions of Pearl Farm are still nothing but awe and wonder. It's perhaps no surprise to me, even after dark, that this resort was designed by an artist and not an architect. It all just adds to its already abundant postcard persona. The theme is Asian tropical but this is not your standard nipa hut! Expect Balinese style high ceilings, bamboo structures, but most notably - ever present luxury.

Once home to an abundance of pink, white and gold pearls (hence the name), this beachside resort covers over 14 hectares that once played host to thousands of white lipped oysters. Unlike other resorts in the area, the buildings don't impose on the tranquil settings. Instead they were built around the contours of the island.  

Before I even get a chance to step inside my room, I'm dwarfed by the size of it all. This may be considered basic accommodation by the elite, but this waterfront cottage far exceeds the dimensions of my studio apartment (and travel writer budget!). This really is how the other half live, so as expected, the price tag reads 'splurge only.'  The moment you step off the boat, members of the staff are there to welcome you with warm smiles and open hearts. You don't just feel like a VIP here, you become one.

Something as simple as bathroom towels, become origami creations, with each day presenting a new animal. I can scarcely believe my eyes, as I spy an elephant sitting on my bed, made from about 3 bath towels and a boatload of patience. The following day, my elephant friend will be no more, vanishing in thin air to be replaced by an elegant swan.

Breakfast and dinner is a buffet affair, with world class cuisine and both Filipino and Western food available. Maranao Restaurant serves a varied mixture of cuisine, with many different palates catered for to suit a complex list of clientele. If unparalleled luxury is your goal, why not set yourself up with table and chair on the enticing water’s edge? Anything is possible – this is the life!

Hidden coves are scattered throughout Samal Island. The sand is as soft as sugar and rears a blinding shade of white at the onset of the midday sun. The surrounding turquoise waters fluctuate between green and blue throughout the day, depending on the ferocity of the sun. I sprawl myself out on a lounge chair to read a book, and notice the change of colour between each chapter. Yes, it really does happen that fast.

I opt not to wait the required thirty minutes before swimming, as the twinkling ocean rising and falling in the corner of my eyes, teases me relentlessly. The tropical climate and proximity to the equator means that it’s always hot and humid in Mindanao, making swimming the activity of choice year round. The warm waters are akin to that of a jet-stream Jacuzzi, working wonders on your peace of mind and delivering tranquillity in spades. 

Beautiful coral gardens can be seen from the jetty upon arrival, or spotted from the shore in other parts of the island. While the reefs are home to neon-like fish and shimmering shoals, those snorkelers who consider themselves a little more adventurous will find the bigger fish waiting under the resort’s main jetty. Here you will find tuna and snapper, as well as barracuda if you're lucky. For scuba divers with an itch for exploration, there are two sunken WW2 battleships less than 60m from the resort. 



Aqua Sports Activity Centre is home to many activities, both above and below the water's surface. Speed boats and outriggers can be rented out for a sunset cruise, perfect for honeymooners and those who are just hopeless romantics. Although banana boats, kayaks and wind surfing are all on offer - I can't in good logic pass up the chance to ride a jet ski.








Jet skis are available on a per use basis, and feeling like something new, I decide to give it a go. It's like mixing the 'walk on water' abilities of Jesus Christ, with the rebellious nature of 'Easy Rider.' It's bliss. As I roar across the water to a not too distant mountain, all the worries of the world are blown away. The huts on the shoreline quickly come into focus, and the ripple of waves left by my wake, provides a nice rocking action to my machine.





Home to more than just indulgence and water sports, visitors are also able to learn about the Mandaya people, a tribe native to the area of Eastern Mindanao. Adjacent to the tennis courts, I watched the intricate process of transforming a local cloth known as Dagmay, into everything from handbags to household ornaments. In the process, I was lucky enough to learn a little about their tribal folklore and spiritual beliefs, something I don't think they offer at Club Med.

GETTING THERE

By Plane - From Metro Manila, three major airlines fly daily to Davao and the flight is a breeze at only 1 hour and 45 minutes.

By Boat - Two shipping lines (SuperFerry & Sulpicio) have regular trips to Davao from various locations, scattered throughout the country, including; Manila, Iloilo City & Cebu. Travel time from Manila can reach two days.

RATES & SERVICES

Prices range from somewhat affordable to downright expensive. The Hilltop Room is the most affordable at $150 USD per night, while those wanting to splurge on a Malipano Villa can expect to pay $680 USD each night for the privilege.

Roundtrip transfers from the airport will set you back $20 USD, while the roundtrip boat transfers will cost another $25 USD.

Coron, Palawan

There are several ways to find yourself in Coron, Palawan.

You have the option to catch a one hour flight from Manila, and while it's convenient - you're missing out on a lot of adventure along the way. If you have an aversion to airplanes, or just really love the deep blue sea - you have the option of going by boat. Don't expect a huge and luxurious cruise liner though, as I did, for the boat you catch probably won't be big enough for 15 people.

                                                                            The journey from San Jose, Occidental Mindoro, lasts about six to eight hours depending on weather conditions. Although stuffed to capacity with cargo, everything from rusty spoons to chicken wire, I am still able to stretch my (sea) legs - albeit on bags of rice and garlic. As it can be a tiresome journey, the crew are kind enough to share their lunch with the passengers. For hours at a time there is no land in sight, but rather than feeling helpless, I'm exhilarated by the experience. Even when the captain is zig zagging through treacherous waves, I can't help but smile and slap my thigh at the rise and fall of this small wooden banca.                                                                    

That's not to say I wasn't relieved when we finally reached land. Touching base in Coron, I felt instantly welcomed by the landscape of sheer limestone cliffs, tranquil waters and indeed civilization itself - a respite most welcome.

Once out of the boat and on dry land again, I bypass the gang of tricycle drivers and walk towards the Hollywood style 'CORON' lettering on the top of one of many mountains that surround the cityscape. The streets themselves are a winding maze, with a buffet of dive-shops, restaurants and bars to choose from. Proving once again that Filipinos are the most hospitable bunch in all of Asia, I'm welcomed to Palawan a whopping seven times, just en route to my hotel.

After a few days of relenting, I give in and do something touristy. I opt for a day of island hopping, and within ten minutes i'm sitting on the banca and awaiting adventure. With a firm prod of a mighty bamboo pole, the captain of the ship sets sail. The motor coughs and splutters into life like a pack-a-day smoker as we leave Coron harbor for a day of snorkeling through corals in and around the shipwrecks of WW2 battleships. The air is no longer heavy and humid, as we bid a silent thanks to the gentle sea breeze.

It's still true, even in this day and age of wireless internet and talking toilets, that we know more about what goes on in outer space, than we do in the depths of our mysterious oceans. The coral reefs here resemble an underwater forest of sorts, complete with trees, bushes and grass (so to speak). The first life form that I spot underwater is a starfish the size of Shaquille O'Neal's hand, but with fat sausage-like fingers. A tremendous shade of shimmering blue, I watch it sit idly by, clinging on to a rock face. 

As I rise to the surface to rinse my goggles, I'm followed upwards by a shoal of flying fish. I watch them glide atop the water, like skipping stones on a lake, before they submerge once more. No doubt due to the sunken ship, this cove of corals is a protected area, offering the chance to see fish both big and small. What catches my interest though, is a puffer fish, both the shape and color of a pineapple.

No doubt seeing me as a threat, it seeks refuge out of harm's way in a coral crevice. I watch its head darting out every once in a while, just to watch me watching it. I take a break from swimming to sprawl myself on the sand beneath a coconut tree. It is then and there that i'm reminded of a statistic that lists falling coconuts as the most likely way to injure yourself in Palawan. It beats being knifed on a train carriage in Perth, but I think for now, I'll find shade elsewhere.

The skeleton wreck of a Japanese battleship from WW2 is just as the name suggests. All that remains are the bones of a once great warship. The hull is encrusted with shells, and slowly but surely it is becoming part of the sub-aquatic furniture. The surrounding waters are the murkiest shade of navy blue and the atmosphere is more than a little somber. After several attempts, I succeed in touching it, if only briefly. Seeing as how this is my first attempt at free diving, and it's ten meters below the surface - I'm glowing with pride nonetheless =)

Walking through time in Manila.

MANILA

The capital city of The Philippines, along with her residents (Manilenos), display an abundance of Latin flair. Understandably so, as this enigmatic nation was a Spanish colony for over three centuries. This is a city comprised of sixteen separate cities, with a greater urban area of over twenty million people. That's bigger than London or New York City. Widely considered as one of South East Asia's most cosmopolitan cities, Manila is bursting at the seams with possibilities. 




The first thing most visitors will take away from it, is the unashamedly friendliness of the people. Expect big smiles, happy faces and excited waving - all from strangers. I must have been welcomed to Manila six or seven times, all within the first few hours of my arrival. This is the kind of place where a smile goes a long long way, so don't forget to bring your's!


Manila acts as a perfect beginner's guide to The Philippines. It is here you can uncover a wealth of history and culture. Regardless of your nationality (or gender), locals are likely to call out to you 'Hey Joe!' wherever you go. This is a throwback to the days of WW2, when American soldiers fought alongside Filipinos and liberated them from the Japanese Imperial Army. It's not an insult, it's just one of the many ways a foreign visitor will be welcomed to these vibrant shores.

                                                       

INTRAMUROS

This is the oldest part of Manila, with the wall surrounding the city being built in the 16th century. Amazingly, it is still intact today, even after the battering Manila got during WW2. The area is perfect for wandering around and getting lost in, if it's too hot though, be sure to hail a pedi-cab. You can get a tour of all the hotspots for the bargain rate of 150 PHP! Highlights include; Fort Domingo, Manila Cathedral, Rizal shrine and other historical landmarks, including many museums. There are also a few restaurants serving up authentic Spanish fare, go on, try some paella!

Your pedi-cab driver may have a few suggestions of his own too.

"Do you like guns, big guns?" he asks excitedly, in an accent akin to Tony Montana (Scarface).

"Sure," I replied, trying but failing to match his enthusiasm. All over the world, boys will be boys.

Located just a stone's throw away from Intramuros, is Rizal park. It's more than just a popular picnic spot for families and lovebirds alike, it's named in honor of Jose Rizal - the national hero. Rizal was a freedom fighter, scholar and well renowned poet, but worst of all, he was an atheist! A monument marks the spot of his assassination, and surrounding it are lush green landscapes, water fountains of outrageous proportions and an abundance of outdoor aerobics classes. Don't be surprised if you get asked to join in!

For a more in-depth and extensive tour of the area, you'd best tag along for a tour with Carlos Celdran. Part-time entertainer, occasional comedian and full-time tour guide, this local celebrity made headlines around the world last year when he dressed up as Jose Rizal and entered Manila Cathedral during mass holding up a sign exclaiming 'STOP getting involved in politics.'

Armed with a top hat and a boombox, Celdran is unlike any other tour guide. He is eccentric and entertaining, but his knowledge of Manila is also second to none. From its Islamic beginnings, to the origin of the name (a little white flower that grows on the banks of the Pasig river), Celdran really will change the way you look at Manila.

The tour is very informative, but despite the length of three hours - is entertaining throughout. Whether he's throwing flower petals in the air, donning an Uncle Sam hat or smoking a pipe a la General MacArthur, you can rest assured that there is never a dull moment on this guided walk.

The always smiling Carlos, loses his joking manner when recounting the tragic loss of Jose Rizal. Comparing the Catholic church to the Taliban, he warns his audience of the dangers of mixing religion with politics. Standing before the monolithic Manila Cathedral, he recounts the number of times it has been reconstructed within its 300 year history. The building dwarfs everything it surrounds, and as if reading my mind, Carlos clicks his fingers and points at me.

"Religion is king here, as it was then. The Philippines was never a colony of Spain, we were created merely as an outpost of the Vatican. Why do you think we never learned to speak Spanish?" he exclaims.

The click-clack of a horse's hooves, as well as the occasional snort, means it's time for a horse drawn carriage. Riding through the cobblestone streets, I see people taking an afternoon snooze on the grass. The Spanish priests sent out here may not have brought with them their language, but they certainly introduced the siesta.

While a tour of this fascinating districts allows visitors a glimpse into what Manila was like three centuries ago, a visit to Corregidor is vital in understanding the role WW2 played in shaping the city we see today. The 'Battle of Manila' claimed the lives of over 100,000 civilians, and essentially, the city had to start again from scratch.

CORREGIDOR ISLAND


Also known as 'the rock,' this island is 48 kms from Manila by fast ferry and was a major strategic battlepoint during WW2. It's a fantastic place to soak up some Filipino history, as well as bask in national pride. Owned by the government, the only way to see Corregidor is on a guided group tour for 2,000 PHP ($45). Options are abound for overnight stays also, with a resort on offer, as well as bicycle trails, hiking and even a zip-line for the kids.

The voice of Franklin Dela Roosevelt greets passengers on board the ferry, during a short documentary on the history of this mysterious island. I learn it was only one day after the bombing at Pearl Harbor, that the Japanese attacked Manila. The battle for Manila took place in February 1942 After taking over the capital, 26 days of constant bombing met Corregidor. Knowing they could not stop the inevitable, the soldiers instead opted to delay it for as long as possible, their only goal - survival. 20,000 prisoners of war (American/Filipino) died at the hands of the Japanese army, and it was only through the element of surprise that the allied forces were able to reclaim the island, as an attack by sea would be too obvious.

As we disembark the ferry, I'm put in mind of 'Jurassic Park,' complete with a gushing guide and an awaiting cable car. At the end of the tour, it instead becomes Superman's fortress of solitude. First occupied by foreign forces from Spain in 1671, it became American in 1901, Japanese in 1942 and eventually Filipino in 1945. The island is a source of great Filipino patriotism, evident on any given day tour.

The battle scarred barracks remain in ruins, with bullet holes intact. The military stronghold is clustered with cannons, not to mention a sizable art collection, including bleak but beautiful oil paintings - depicting WW2 and the impact it had on this country. Of all the cities in the world bombed during WW2, Manila is second only in total damages to Warsaw, Poland.

Ancient tunnels, used by both axis and allies, can be explored only with a helmet and torch. You can try doing it on the sly, like I did, but you'll likely meet monitor lizards, snakes and even bats that call these dark and dreary spaces home - so watch your step! There's a light and (loud) sound show on offer for an additional 150 PHP, that reels off a timeline and series of events in a concise, if extensive manner.

The views are fantastic throughout the whole tour, with the skyline of Manila visible on a clear day from certain points on the island. The hills are of a rolling green variety, with tall trees here, there and everywhere. Surprisingly so, considering only several trees escaped the war unharmed. The Pacific War Memorial rounds out the tour nicely, with an imposing freefall structure, casting out eyes on a cold, blue ocean.

Corregidor Island is well worth a visit, even if you're not a military history buff. It helps you to learn and appreciate Filipino culture on a deeper level. Knowing the history of this enigmatic nation, helps you to understand the current state and what the future holds.

MODERN DAY MAKATI

Makati is the financial district, a part of the city that feels very westernized - with designer shopping, fast food chains and trendy hangout spots galore. The glistening skyscrapers found here proudly exclaim Manila's place in the 21st century.  The streets and buildings are meticulously clean and kept in tip top condition by an army of street sweepers working day and night. As such, the area is frequented by westerners on vacation, as well as expats seeking a break from the encompassing madness. This is in direct contrast to areas like Pasay, a part of town where spotting white folk could almost be considered a sport!

Makati and nearby Malate share the title of premier nightlife district in town. Both districts offer a multitude of bars, restaurants and a staggering amount of nightclubs. Malate has a slightly more bohemian style, well known for live-bands and acoustic sets, but wherever you go in town - electro music is the staple sound for the Manileno youth. Expect it to be played loud and until all hours of the night, even on weekdays. 

To truly understand the capital city of this enigmatic nation though, you must leave the modern comforts of Makati. While a break-neck speed trishaw ride through the crowded streets of Pasay may suffice for visitors with limited time, a better bet is to visit the historical corners of the city like Intramuros.